It’s a good idea to take close-up pictures of as many components in the engine as possible, from different angles. As you get to working, these can be invaluable. You might even print them out and label them for a reference.
It’s a good idea to take close-up pictures of as many components in the engine as possible, from different angles. As you get to working, these can be invaluable. You might even print them out and label them for a reference.
Remove the radiator and fan shroud (if applicable). Be gentle with it, the aluminum cells are delicate, and can easily be damaged. Next, loosen the alternator, the tension assembly, cooling fan(s), and belts. Disconnect the intake air supply and the fuel lines. Some vehicles have a fuel system which is pressurized even when the engine is not running, so be prepared to drain the fuel and relieve the pressure before disconnecting them. When you unbolt the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, do it without disconnecting the hoses to save yourself some time in reassembly. It’s a good idea to make drawings and take close photos, as well as labeling the hoses and wires with tape and marker. Do not depend on memory. Some wires and hoses will only plug into place in one way, but some are not obvious. You’ll likely still need a chart, diagram/drawing, and pictures to ease the reassembly process.
In most cases, the transmission itself doesn’t need to be removed from the vehicle, as long as it can be safely supported when the engine is removed.
Be extremely careful. Swing motor free of car to avoid hitting the car and lower the engine onto your work surface, or the ground to start disassembly and inspection.
Even if you’ve got an older model, shop manuals are on eBay all the time for relatively cheap, and are often available at the public library for free. If you’re going to invest in the project, it’s absolutely essential that you get the shop manual so that you can learn the proper specs and particularities of the engine you’re dealing with.
Also, check the ID and casting numbers to ensure that the engine you think you are working on is actually the engine you are working on. Engine swaps are not uncommon and each engine has different specifications.
Remove the camshaft, balancer shafts, and auxiliary drives. Pay attention to end play shims and spacers, keep these organized you will need to put these back in the correct order. Remove the cam bearings, paying attention to their position.
If the crank is out of spec, mark it for identification and have it sent to a machine shop you trust with the necessary machinery for resurfacing or turning to return the bearing journals to round. If the crank is turned, make a note of the cut, bearings will need to be ordered to match the new journal diameter. Once the machine shop has reground the crank, you can use a rifle brush to remove the excess debris from the oil passages. Then measure the crankshaft again so that you can replace the bearings to get the crank to bearing clearance within specification.
If you want to, it might be a good idea to Magnaflux the engine block to look for leaks. Magnaflux should only be used to find leaks on cast iron. Use dye penetrant to find cracks on aluminum blocks. Most machine shops will perform these inspections, and may also pressure test engine blocks and cylinder heads. You may have them hot tank the engine block and cylinder head to clean it while you are at it.
Using a dial bore gauge measure each cylinder bore’s taper and for out of round. Inspect each cylinder for discoloration and washboard. Use a rigid stone hone to identify washboard. Check alignment and out of round of the main bearing bores with a dial bore gauge.
Worn valve stems. Use a micrometer and replace any valves whose stems exceed specification. Worn keeper grooves. Replace any worn keepers. Thin margins. Margins should be thinner on intake valves than exhaust valves. Replace valves with excessively thin margins. Length, tension, and squareness. Replace any springs which are worn beyond specification.
The valve seals come in 3 different types: band, umbrella, or PC type. Pay attention to the order of assembly. Assemble valve heads. Check for leaks using either a liquid test or a vacuum test, or have them perform this at the machine shop.
Wash block using hot soapy water, then blow dry thoroughly to remove any moisture from the engine. Blow out all bolt holes using compressed air to remove any debris prior to installing fasteners.
Prepare to lubricate main bearings by cleaning and drying the main bearing bores and the backs of the bearings. Lubricate the inside of all the main bearings and the lip on rear main seal with the recommended OEM oil/grease. Then install main bearings and rear main seal, keeping sure install in the correct position.
Rotate crank to see if it binds up. If the crank rotates smoothly, then next check the end play.
To degree the cam and set the timing, aligning the timing marks at Top Dead Center and set the degree wheel correctly on the cam, with the crankshaft/piston timing and proper valve timing sequences for intake, compression, power, and exhaust strokes of the engine.
When you’re installing, you should stagger the ring end gaps on the pistons. The tiny gap at the end of each ring are turned 180 degrees apart around the piston, compared to the next ring, reducing what’s sometimes called “blow-by”. Be sure the oil expander ring is fitted/butted properly.
Continue rotating the crankshaft after installing each piston and torquing the rod caps to make sure it still rotates freely. If gets too hard to turn, you’ll know the last piston in that cylinder or the rod inserts are binding–insert halves must snug up without the end of one insert slipping under the other half. Spin test crank after each bearing is installed.
Install a transmission Replace the air conditioner Change out the radiator Get a new starter
OEM spark plugs new distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires new air filter, fuel filter, crankcase filter and PCV valve
Make sure to monitor the oil pressure gauge and the temp gauge. If you notice full oil pressure, cut the engine immediately and check for fluid leaks. If you notice anything unusual, stop the engine immediately.
Pull the radiator cap to check for adequate flow or leaks before it gets too hot. Check that the battery is charging.
